Ometepe Island

We made an early start (5am) and were driven to the ferry port of San Jorge in order to catch the ferry to Ometepe Island.  The weather had been windy for the last couple of days, some ferry services had been cancelled, and our guide was concerned that the ferry might be busy.  In the event we had no problems.  It was a small ferry able to accommodate about 6 vehicles and 40 passengers and made the crossing in a little over an hour.

Rising proudly from the waters of Lake Nicaragua, Ometepe Island is made up of two magnificent volcanic cones, one active and one dormant. The total land area is around 276 sq kilometres.  The volcanoes dominate every view, only the margins of the island are cultivated intensely, whilst predominantly the land is given over to unspoiled forest dotted here and there with a few small-holdings.  Many of the roads are little more than dirt tracks, and are rock strewn and pot-holed so it takes a long while to get around the island. The 15,000 inhabitants here are said to be the kindest in Nicaragua, mainly because the civil wars never reached this Island.

We were given a guided tour of the island that took in the coin museum (more interesting than it sounds!); an archeological museum showing a collection of ceramics spanning 4,000 years and demonstrating the significance of the island as a trading post; a walk to the "mirador" and around a lagoon; a visit to the natural spring at Ojo de Aguada; and lunch at the beach front hotel of Villa Paraiso.

Our accommodation for two nights was at Totoco Ecolodge, positioned half way up the Maderas volcano (the extinct one!). Totoco's website says their ecolodge is "designed for the traveller who wants to experience nature without sacrificing comfort or convenience." They have managed to achieve this. Totoco operates on a philosophy of sustainability. The lodge is off the electricity grid and generates power from solar panels. Hot water comes from heat generated from compost. They are very efficient in storing rain water and recycle kitchen water and human waste(!) to use on the grounds.

The cabins are spacious and comfortable and the lounge and dining areas enjoy fantastic views over Concepcion volcano and across Lake Nicaragua. The surrounding grounds are incredible and there is a pool with a view that few can rival. 

On our second day here we spent the morning kayaking on the lake and up a small river where we were able to spot a variety of bird life including hawks, peregrine falcon, kingfishers, herons, snowy and giant egrets, and vultures.  We also saw iguanas and had several close encounters with alligators!