We left Cana Negro to head for Tenorio. Most of the journey was on paved roads until we hit the turn-off for the National Park. We were soon pleased we had a 4-wheel drive vehicle. The route would simply not have been possible in an ordinary car, the final 8km had to be driven almost at walking pace to avoid the boulders and deep ruts
on a track with steep gradients. We wondered how basic our accommodation might be since clearly this road was impassable to construction vehicles and the few buildings we saw were of rudimentary design. How surprised were we then, when upon arriving at the Rio Celeste Hideaway we were shown into a spacious reception area, lounge, bar and restaurant, with koi carp swimming around a central pool, whilst behind lay a large swimming pool and outdoor heated jacuzzi for guests. Our luxurious private chalet lay tucked away behind the trees in perfect seclusion, complete with its own jacuzzi. Despite the rain we were not lost for things to do. No surprise, then, that the hotel describes itself as one of the top destinations in Costa Rica for honeymooners!
Through the night it rained....and it rained...and it rained. Undaunted we headed out next day on a trek to the Rio Celeste waterfall, the supposed highlight of the area and the main draw. We were to be disappointed. Instead of a brilliant blue pool created
by the mixing of two water sources, one carrying deposits of silica and alumina, the other with a high acidity, the water had turned a muddy grey, although the waterfall itself was no less spectacular. Unfortunately the top half of the walk to the mirador and sulphurous volcanic vents had been closed overnight due to a landslide, and so we returned early to our hotel. A day of few pictures and little wildlife.
And so to the story. We learned how vital the bromeliad, an air plant, that can store up to 2 gallons of water in its reservoir, is to the survival of species in the rainforest. In particular to the red poison dart frog. The female lays her eggs on the forest floor.
The male fertilises them without any contact. He then guards them and waters them with his urine for the next week to prevent them from drying out. When the tadpoles hatch the female returns and carries them 20 feet up the tree to the bromeliad plant where they stay for 5 weeks until the metamorphosis into frog is complete, and then the whole cycle starts again. Sex, but no sex!
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